Saturday, June 14, 2014

An essay from 2003


Starting college 11 years ago I wrote my first paper ever (in my life), which was about the experience of stepping aboard a sailing ship for the first time and learning the ways of a sailor. It's kind of cute and I was reading a lot of Coleman Bark's translations of Rumi, so it's all in his style of exclamation marks, ecstaticness, and improper sentences. I found the text file today while backing up my crash-imminent computer, and it just seems such a good reflection of who I was at the time. Several years later with various professional licenses pointing me towards a career as a captain, I walked away from it all and never went back. I don't regret that at all, but that time seems like a dream now from a different life. Here is the paper in its entirety:

A scrap of tightly woven canvas sits in silent waiting inside the snug cabin of an aging sailing ship.  Its edges are rough and coming unraveled while its thick strands are still clean and stiff from lack of use. Yet it does not protest its dull existence. And how could it? It’s simply a bit of cloth until it is noticed and given a purpose.
    When a sailor steps aboard a sailing ship for the first time it is quite the surreal experience. Attempting to take in the bustling surroundings, one feels as if they may be shrinking into the wooden planks of the deck, worn smooth under years of scrambling feet. Stout masts tower over you while the seemingly nonsensical web of rigging reaches towards the sky to support the expertly crafted spars and sails. The ship sways beneath your unaccustomed feet, comforting the weathered sai lors like a mother rocking her children to sleep. An occasional sea shantey is heard mingling with the whispering wind that teasingly brings the scents of foreign lands. This becomes home as your shipmates become family and rarely will you ever see one so caring for each other than on a ship like this.
    As time goes by, a realization sets in that the canvas has an important role in this strange environment. With that, a small circle of about a foot across and a rectangle of its girth is neatly sliced with the sailor’s trusty rigging knife. With care, the fraying edges of the stiff shapes are folded under to protect the exposed ends of the weave, and matched together with steady hands to guide the entire form into a something much like the tall h at of a masterful chef on land.
    With such seemingly simple acts one would think this creation would be a quick affair, but that is surprisingly far from the truth. While learning the skills to take on this task, a sailor’s hands become hard and strong from arduous hours of work, while free time is short and far apart. The rough canvas threatens to chafe your hands raw, while patience and strength is required to make the delicate cuts necessary.
    And this is merely how the simple foundation is set! Now, much more is necessary to hold this all together.
    As you sail, shipmates share marvelous tales and proudly pass on carefully honed skills like the generations before them. Until soon, painstakingly even stitches are made by hand with a thick needle as it protests the force required to squeeze between the tough strands of the always evolving form. Several small lines are attached to the open edge as if creating a little parachute, but then woven together in fanciful knots making a clever handle unique to what any other sailor could or will ever form.
    Tool by tool, the creation is slowly filled until it seems no more could possibly fit. Then it’s time to start patching the holes worn through the form over the ages. That is why the sailor’s tradition of crafting a Ditty Bag is important to me.

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Spring break truckventure

The newest addition to the family is: a truck. It's cool and I'm a little jealous. It makes me want to put my stuff in storage and be a bum in the woods, or on the coast, or... I've always had a pull to just go somewhere, anywhere, on adventures largely unplanned to see new people and places and really just to see how those journeys unfold. So the night before my week of vacation starts we agreed to make a trip to the coast. With a small number of places to see at some point, we packed up and went. We meandered from Ashland to Gold Beach, north to the Oregon Dunes, and then through Eugene to finish with some brewery tastings. It was really nice to not have a schedule.

"One of the world's largest myrtle trees, 88' tall and 42' circumference"
After an afternoon beaching it in Gold Beach, we drove inland through the dark to camp out in national forest. I kind of like finding camp spots before dark, but it was pretty cool to wake up in the morning to see our surroundings for the first time. It turns out we were near a trail head for a stand of myrtle trees that has a really big blob of connected trees that gets some tree people excited enough to make interp signs about it. We took a pre-coffee picture and headed back to the coast for a tailgate breakfast viewing the ocean.

Later in the day there was a little sign for the South Slough Reserve, and without a schedule to keep we stopped to check it out. There's a great trail system there that winds through a series of different ecosystems, with interp stuff and all sorts of vistas to keep you wondering what was next.

Spring


Really neat boardwalk system over stinky cabbages...

Tunnel trail

Finally after checking out a bunch of campgrounds like Goldilocks, we settled on a great little campground by the dunes and took a last hike before the sun went down and spring rains resumed.


Happy face


The camp ground we stayed at was pretty rad- Oregon does it right. The rains started in the night and stuck around, making me happy to be snug in the truck without a wet tent to fold up in the morning! After a leisurely morning we headed to Eugene for a dose of good beer and coffee before deciding to just head home. That's it. All that and not a single truck picture.

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Bikepacking Camp Verde to Verde Hot Springs

So it's not quite recent, but here is a little show and tell of a bike trip from March 2013. We had been wanting to go to the Verde River Hot Springs, which is an old hot spring resort that dates back to prohibition era. In the 60s the resort burned down and all that's left now is cement remnants of decks and walls, and of course hot springs! We decided to make the visit into a bike trip riding a loop from our friend's house in Camp Verde, to the springs via forest roads, and then back.

For a pre-ride to shake out our winter legs, we rode from Camp Verde towards an old 1800's mining town called Crown King, nestled in the Bradshaw Mountains. The whole area is pretty magical and hardy and wild-westy.


 

The road is a steady climb up (about 2500 feet up) with a few pickup trucks and ATVs here and there to dust you. The Bradshaws seems to roll on forever in the distance, just brown and shrubby, dotted with cactus and old homesteads and mines. We passed some gold diggers heading out on the backs of ATVs into the wild in search of left over treasure. And of course what is an AZ outdoors trip without a large party shooting guns.


Looking up at a series of switchbacks winding their way towards Crown King, we turned around and settled with some cheap beer from the bar in Cleator that we passed on our way up. This is quite a place and I regret not having pictures of the inside. There was a stuffed alligator and all sorts of other charming decorations and people.



Day 1 for reals. 45ish miles. With the addition of several friends, we left Camp Verde and quickly hit dirt, bypassing the highway for a forest service road up Copper Canyon. I have stories from this road before on our first AZ bike tour where we realized how burly forest service roads were in the state. This was a jeep road that descended steeply enough for your back wheel to slide out when braking, which was necessary because there's a rock wall on one edge with the highway far above, and a drop-off as the other edge down into the creek below. So awkward. So on this trip we rode up it. With the weight of my gear packed towards the back of my bike, the steepness this time would lift my front wheel off the ground and send me awkwardly off into another direction as I cranked my granny gears. I was pretty pissed, and I lagged behind pushing as folks with frame bags and more skill cranked on up to the top.



About 8 miles later at the top of Copper Canyon you've gained 1500 feet and the best part of the ride unfolds as you wind through blond rolling hills on FS 68D.


Then you start climbing again later on Dugas Road. And I stopped taking pictures. Dugas road remains dirt the whole way to the river, getting rockier as you go. It does a lot of little up and downs and false summits opening up onto vistas unfolding the next winding climb, and then it becomes a jeep road washed with cobbles that just goes up. We had heard that Dugas road was in the top 3 burliest roads in AZ, and it quickly gave our ride a nickname: the fun-hating ride. As in, if you hate fun, this is the ride for you. We ran out of water and climbed, and pushed, and I cried as I reached my limits but knew that camping dehydrated without a water source would suck even worse. Delirium had fully set in as we kept going, giving each other looks and exclamations about how fucked up the road and the tour was. Near the top we paused at a parched cow skeleton on the side of the road, and we stoked our spirits talking about how the last 10 miles would be all down hill, dropping us 4000 feet down to the river before sun down.


Reaching the top we took in miles of rolling landscape spread out below, with the Verde River nestled in waiting for us as an oasis somewhere between the folds of dry hills. With the sun setting, we bundled up and started the descent. The cobbles grew to boulders though and life got harder in a new way.


Partly riding, partly walking through sandy washes and boulder filled channels in the dark, we made it to the river late that night totally beaten down and yet somehow exhilarated by having pushed our bodies beyond our imagined limits. After a while we found our way to the hot springs and pushed ourselves to drop in for a soak under the stars rather than listen to our bodies that wanted nothing but to shut down in warm sleeping bags.




Day 2, getting helivaced doesn't sound too bad. A week before our trip the flow rate of the Verde was still pretty high, and we were a little nervous about needing to cross it to continue our loop out. We optimistically took our chances heading out on the trip, hoping that waters were low enough to wade across carrying bikes. Returning from the way we came wasn't an option, so if we couldn't cross we were going to have to find a way to get rescued. Luckily flow rates weren't too bad and we watched experienced visitors wade across up river a little way from the springs.


Our hardier friends headed out early as we stayed to soak some more before crossing the river and hiking out to a very nice paved road. Heading back to Camp Verde, pavement ends and rocky dirt continues as you climb out. I cried some more as the guys waited up at the top and I half-rode half-pushed because I was really ready to stop climbing. I envisioned for the first time on a ride, throwing my bike off the top of the cliff out of anger. Eventually I pulled my shorts out from where they were and got over my ego and was ready to keep riding and appreciate where we were.


Fossil Creek flows invitingly along the road after the first big climb, and its blue waters are as refreshing as they look. I didn't take any pictures though. After more bumpy climbing and coasting and a short stint on pavement we arrived back in Camp Verde where burritos and beer awaited to finish the trip. The climb out felt really long for the miles, but maybe that was because of the day before.

I don't think I would do this trip again, or would have if I had known what we were getting into, but I'm glad we did it. This trip set the bar for challenging situations, and it is always in my mind as a reference when I face a challenge. Things could be worse.

Day 1
Day 2